After a quick stop in Puerto Escondido to resupply, we headed to Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante. Two years ago, Jeff and I stood on this island, after being brought there by a local panga during a visit to Loreto, and said “our boat needs to be here”. Well, here we are…
We met up with Betsy and Derek and their super chill goldendoodle Wilbur, again on Taj. The Mobula Rays were all around our boats; between them and the pelicans, it was a feeding frenzy on the bait balls and small krill in the cove. We sat on our boats and were entertained as if watching a Blue Planet show. The next day we headed north to anchor off the town of Loreto. The town does not have a marina and the anchorage is wide open; but we had incredibly calm winds that made for a peaceful night. That evening, we went to town as we heard about an art and music festival. We caught an all girl band from Ensendada that was brilliant. Well, for awhile. They started with awesome blues but diverged after their break into some more hardcore, headswinging riffs. Time for dinner and a margarita. While at dinner, we chatted with the young waiter who spoke fluent english. He should, he is from Chicago. He came down here to meet his d
ad for the first time and although it hasn’t turned out to be an Oprah episode, he was so mature, and was determined to get the best out of it. He was a gem of a young man.
We went to Puerto Escondido (again!) to prep for our friends visit and meet them on Monday. We also had our first real “rescue” on the dock. As we were washing down Salpare, I saw an elderly sailor struggling to bring his boat in to the dock.I suggested to Jeff that he go lend a hand. Within a minute, Jeff yelled to me “get our swim ladder; there is someone in the water!”. I wrestled our ladder off and ran down the dock with it to find an older woman clinging to the dock by her fingertips. While they were approaching the dock, she leaned over and the lifeline stanchion gave way on their rather tired boat. She went in and was oh so lucky she didn’t hit the dock while falling. Jeff found here hanging on the dock 2’ above her, her husband overwhelmed with what to do, their outboard engine still running and the boat still not tied up. Jeff quickly had a plan, turned off the motor and yelled to me. We put the ladder on the dock and Jeff and her husband held it in place while I helped her climb out. She was a bigger person and had recently had back surgery so pulling her out would never have been an option. As, we were the only ones on the dock at the time. Jeff’s quick thinking under pressure; literally saved this from being a tragedy. As we reflected on the whole scene later that night, we looked at how many other outcomes this could have had; all bad. Jeff said “our first rescue; it won’t be our last”. We might just put smiley faces on our boom for lives saved…
Our friends arrived Monday afternoon. John and Sheri are members of Weber County Search and Rescue in Ogden, UT. I met both of them while leading a Mt. Rainier climb during a conference years ago. Jeff is also on the national Mountain Rescue Association Grant Committee with John so lots of mutual ties. Although the high winds prevented us from leaving on Tuesday, we hiked Steinbeck Canyon. If you’ve read the Sea of Cortez, by Steinbeck, then you know this canyon. Beautiful rock formations with cold, clear pools and a picnic lunch made for a stellar day. That night we went to Pedro’s in Loreto Bay for a late dinner. Pedro, the owner, is a larger than life character who makes his restaurant more than great food and margheritas. He welcomes everyone personally with hugs and warm holas! Two young musicians played Spanish guitar while we dined. During the dinner, Pedro grabbed one of the guitars and sang a rousing rendition of GLORIA from the 70’s to, who else but Gloria, at the next table. I sang along and Gloria and I become quick friends. She spoke no English and my little Spanish didn’t stop us from bridging the language gap. We’re now Facebook friends; yes, the world is a small and wonderful place.
The next morning we had a super fun sail to Punta Colorado on the eastern side of Isla Carmen. We guessed not more than 5 boats a year come to this anchorage as its off the beaten path. This was evident by the incredible shells that covered the beach; nothing picked over! A dark, calm night left us feeling like the only boat in the sea.
Back to our favorite, Honeymoon Cove for the next 2 nights and another sporting sail. The “Mobs” were still there in force. After seeing them heading for our cove from a hike to the hills above, we jumped in the dinghy and grabbed snorkeling gear. I practically leapt out of the dinghy as we got near and swam right into them. As with our time swimming with the whale sharks earlier in the trip; this was AWESOME! There were hundreds swimming from the surface to about 30’ deep. They just swam right around me as I marveled at their elegance. One little flutter of their wings and those suckers move! Back in the dinghy, Jeff and Sheri got a kick out of my squeals of delight sounding through my snorkel! I left the water tired but totally jacked up from the swim!
The winds continued to howl but we were safely tucked in the cove. At night, we had astronomy lessons from John and during the day we explored, snorkeled and swam. This cove will always have a special place in our hearts and memories.
As we said our goodbyes to John and Sheri after a fun week, we helped Betsy and Derek with a fuel issue while back in Puerto Escondido. We all headed north the next day for San Juanico. Betsy and Derek had driven their camper down a few years ago and stayed on this coast; so they were terrific and gracious guides for this area. San Juanico is a cove filled with jagged islets, small islands and a beach with a few campers. Everyday at 5pm, those on land and sea gather at Whit and Jan’s - the local duke and duchess of SJ. I found these folks to be so laid back, friendly, open and generous. I’m sure each of them has an interesting story that brought them to this place; it would make for an great book. Most stay for a few weeks to a few months and come back each year. The bay has terrific snorkeling, crystal clear water and gentle hikes. It would be just another beautiful anchorage but the hospitality makes this place ever so special.
Happy Holidays and much love to all our friends and family!
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